Photos and Story By Monique Beeley 

With modest vision, Major Powell gave name to an unknown section of the Colorado River lying between the perilous hollows of infamous Cataract Canyon and the magnificent, majestic walls of the Grand Canyon. 135 years have passed since Powell christened this little known southwestern treasure, which encompasses over 1.2 million acres of some of the most rugged yet unbelievably fantastic desert landscapes in the US.

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is a land of many controversies. The biggest and most contentious was the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam, begun just over fifty years ago in 1956 when Congress passed the Colorado River Storage Project Act. The primary mission of this federal project was to manage and store millions of gallons of water from the Colorado River in what is now Lake Powell.  Today, critics of the dam are calling for its decommission thereby draining the lake and returning the canyon and river corridor to its natural state.  Supporters of Lake Powell contend that it’s an essential element of the West’s water-storage system.  

Sea-Kayaking

Lake Powell, formed by the Glen Canyon Dam, is nearly 200 miles of crystal blue water and red rock canyons in Southwestern Utah, with a portion across the state line in Arizona. There are 96 major side canyons, each with its unique mood and personality. One of the best ways to explore the beautiful side canyons of Lake Powell is by sea-kayak. Hidden Canyon Kayak of Page, Arizona offers fully supported multi-day paddle adventures into the canyons of Lake Powell. The Escalante Arm is the largest side canyon and one of the best to explore by sea kayak.  With the lower water levels of Lake Powell, many of the canyons that were previously underwater are now re-surfacing and just waiting for adventure.  

On a six-day trip with guides Les and Dave from Hidden Canyon Kayak, we had the opportunity to explore first hand the remote and spectacular canyons the Escalante Arm. We spent many hours each day paddling to water’s end and then hiking through some of the most amazing landscapes, canyons and slots. Each one different from the last, some are so narrow and deep that you could touch both sides of the Navajo sandstone walls while sitting in your kayak. The paddle and hike through Explorer Canyon led us to the grand Zane Grey Arch, named after the rugged-adventure western novelist from the early 1900’s.  See page 94 for more on Les and Dave.  www.hiddencanyonkayak.com. 

Backcountry Access

“These days away from the city have been the happiest of my life…It has all been a beautiful dream, sometimes tranquil, sometimes fantastic and with enough pain and tragedy to make the delights possible by contract.”  [Everett Ruess (From a letter to his friend Bill soon after beginning his journey)] 

Glen Canyon NRA is a backcountry lover’s paradise, with miles upon miles of infrequently visited desert landscapes. One could hike for days, even weeks without crossing the path of another desert rat. For those long explorations in the barren desert make sure have the proper knowledge, skills and equipment to travel safely through this amazing but unforgiving landscape. Free backcountry use permits are required for overnight hikes from www.nps.gov. If self-supported solo trekking into the unknown is not your style, then it’s advisable to hire the services of a local and knowledgeable guide.  Rick Green of Excursions of Escalante might be your best ticket into the backcountry of Glen Canyon.  We should know.  Rick was named Outdoor Utah’s 2005 “Guide of the Year” in backpacking and hiking.  Excursions offers overnight and multi-day backpack and canyoneering adventures.  For 2007 trip schedule visit www.excursion-escalante.com or Info-now! XPLR. 

Hole-in-the-Rock Road

Named for the geological formation through which 250 Mormon pioneers, in 1879, amazingly lowered 80 wagons and 1000 head of cattle down the 1200-foot drop to the floor to cross the Colorado River, Hole-in-the-Rock road runs from Escalante to Lake Powell.  This 62-mile backcountry road is one of the best access points into Glen Canyon NRA and the western tributaries of the Escalante River. Harris Wash, Fiftymile Creek and Davis Gulch are all great day hikes that can be accessed from the Hole-in-the-Rock Road. Twentyfive Mile Wash and Coyote Gulch are great 2 to 3 day adventures. Coyote Gulch, a must-see on the list of desert adventures, claims 3 unique arches and natural bridges; Jacob Hamblin Arch, Coyote Natural Bridge and Cliff Arch and a fourth across the Escalante River, Stevens Arch.  

By water or by land Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is a true desert treasure that is sure to stimulate the mind, body and soul with the tranquility and peace that can only be found far from the hustle and bustle of city life in the heart of Utah’s pristine backcountry.