Exploring the Wonders of the Swell
By Steve Christensen "When speaking of these rocks, we must not conceive of piles of boulders, or heaps of fragments, but a whole land of naked rock, with giant forms carved on it; cathedral-shaped buttes, towering hundreds or thousands of feet; cliffs that cannot be scaled, and canyon walls that shrink the river into insignificance, with vast, hollow domes, and tall pinnacles, and shafts set on the verge overhead, and all highly colored-buff, gray, red, brown, and chocolate; never lichened; never moss-covered; but bare, and often polished."
John Wesley Powell I have been exploring the San Rafael Swell for 20 years. I suspect it will take another 20 . . . The San Rafael Swell has become the latest battle between wilderness advocates and access groups. It's no wonder. "The Swell," as it is known to locals, is one of the most intriguing places in this most intriguing state.  Goblin Valley p: Monique Beeley
Putting wilderness issues aside, the treasures are endless. People come from all over the world to hike these incredible canyons, yet it is still unknown to a large element of the population. Due to lack of paved roads and accommodations, it is one of the last truly wild places in the state. Perhaps in the nation.
The Swell is famous for its geology, history and petroglyphs, its breath taking vistas, slot canyons, and dinosaurs. And, its peace and serenity.
Perhaps the most dramatic element in the area is the San Rafael Reef that dominates the eastern edge of The Swell. Driving Interstate 70 and U.S. Highway 6, one can see the huge uplifted Navajo sandstone face. Erosion has cut through the Reef and polished the sandstone, leaving slots that cause canyoneers to drool. To learn more about the San Rafael Reef, visit www.utah.com/playgrounds/san_rafael.htm.
Canyoneers and rock climbers from all over the world show up with ropes, carabiners, and helmets, necessary to negotiate these incredible slot canyons. The names, Upper Black Box, the Squeeze, Little Wild Horse, Music, Crack, Baptist Draw, and Ding and Dang are famous among serious canyoneers and hikers. For more information about the canyons of the San Rafael Swell, see www.americansouthwest.net/slot_canyons/san_rafael_swell/. Another good site for information about these incredible canyons is www.climb-utah.com/SRS/index.htm.
Mountain bikers have also found a home on the slickrock and canyons of The Swell. Any serious mountain biker will tell you The Five Miles of Hell is better than anything found south of The Swell. The San Rafael Bike Festival is the longest continuous running mountain bike festival in the state, now in it's 18th year. For more information about mountain biking and the geology of the San Rafael Swell, visit www.utahmountainbiking.com/goodies/geology/sanrafael.htm.
Indians lived in this area long before anyone else. They left rock art, which has been dated to nearly 2,000 years. More recently, the Fremont left their mark on the area, disappearing some 800-900 years ago. Even more recently, the Utes lived here. All three groups left petroglyphs and pictographs to explain their existence, or perhaps just add mystery to their disappearance. Who knows . . ? A wonderful website about the rock art of the San Rafael Swell is www.climb-utah.com/SRS/srra.htm. Despite the name, it really is about rock art.
Ranchers have also left their mark on The Swell. The Swasey family first grazed livestock here in the late 1800's. A cabin they built is 1921 is still in good condition just south of I-70. Many of the names of geologic points were either named for or by the Swasey clan.
Motorized recreation has its place in the swell. If you are looking for peace and quite, Easter weekend is no time to visit the more easily accessible places. From dawn to dark, and sometimes well after, people climb hills and negotiate the trails of the Swell. To those people, The Swell holds many treasures and many weekends of riding. The famous Five Miles of Hell, like the famous Slickrock trail in Moab, was developed by motorcycle riders and has largely be taken over by mountain bikers in recent years.
Another favorite activity in The Swell is to canoe the San Rafael River. Runnable only for a few weeks in the late spring, and some years not at all, this is a classic canoe trip and an incredible way to see The Little Grand Canyon. That's right, you float right through the Little Grand Canyon. This is not a trip for beginners. Although there are no rapids to speak of, you are continually negotiating sharp curves. Also be on the lookout for fallen trees and be ready to paddle hard to the side of the river if you see one. If you need beta on this wonderful section of river, contact Carbon County Recreation at 435/637-5092 or see their Info-now! page. Go to outdoorutah.com and enter the code CREC. During the short season Carbon Rec guides can usually be found on the San Rafael on their days off. Yes, it's that special. Canoe, kayak, and inflatable kayak rentals are also available at Carbon Rec. For information about the San Rafael River Gorge see www.southwestpaddler.com/docs/greenut12.html.
The takeout for the San Rafael River is where the road bisects The Swell. If you get to an old suspension bridge, you've gone too far and better get out quick! Below is the infamous Upper Black Box, which, river lore has it, has been successfully negotiated in a kayak, a rumor not substantiated, however! Hiking the Upper Black Box is serious business. Kayaking it is even more serious, with class IV-V rapids, blind drops, and a mandatory portage. This is serious stuff meant only for expert kayakers.
Another treat for river rats is whenever Muddy Creek runs. The Chute of Muddy Creek is one of the really special features of the entire San Rafael Swell. It is a favorite among hikers, backpackers, and river runners. Located in the southern section of The Swell, Muddy Creek also only runs a few weeks of the year, and only in good water years. I've been known to load the inflatable kayak in the back of the pickup and leave the engine running while checking flows in hopes there may be enough water.
Much of the San Rafael Swell is designated as Wilderness Study Area, so take maps and know where you are going to avoid doing something in one of these areas that isn't approved. For more information about the San Rafael Swell Wilderness Study areas visit www.utah.com/playgrounds/san_rafael_wsa.htm.
If you're an adventurer seeking to visit something new and exciting, The Swell is the place. If you do, please do it carefully, responsibly and safely. For more information and help with any of your travel plans, check out the Castle Country Travel Region's Info-now! page by logging on to outdoorutah.com and using the code CSAL. Or, call them at 435-637-3009 or 800-842-0789.
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