The Great Escape
Backpacking Utah's High Uintas

By Brooks Stevenson

Utah is the perennial recreation state; it has everything from skiing to desert solitude, wild rivers and endless miles of bikes trails. But it also boasts remarkable backpacking – a relatively unknown highlight that’s often overlooked by many visitors.

Running east to west for 150 miles, from Salt Lake City to the eastern edge of the state, the Uinta Mountains feature enough hiking to keep you busy for a lifetime. Remarkable because of their great height (the area above timberline exceeds that of any other mountain range in the lower 48), trails rarely dip below 9,000 feet.

Among the best hikes in the range – and there are plenty of good ones – is the short, flat jaunt to Henrys Fork Basin. The basin is surrounded by grand peaks, dotted with mountain lakes, and filled with moose – this is prime habitat and you probably have a 50-50 chance of seeing one if you’re watchful.

The other feature that makes this hike so attractive is its proximity to Utah’s highest point – Kings Peak. The shortest route to the top of Kings is through the Henrys Fork Basin.

Henrys Fork Basin is a perfect hike for someone with as little as three days to spend or as many as five, and for groups who don’t want to cough up a lung trying to get there. There is ample opportunity for exploring the neighboring basins, fishing the abundance of lakes, scaling the surrounding summits, or just enjoying the scenery.

From the trailhead the path parallels the west side of the Henrys Fork River. The forest here is densely wooded lodge pole pine and provides a cool canopy during the warm summer months.

The first major point of interest is Alligator Lake, located at the end of a short spur trail about an hour from the trailhead. Watch for a large pile of rocks on the south side of a wooden boardwalk that crosses a small drainage. At that point the trail to Alligator Lake branches off to the right. The Lake is 0.4 mile up the drainage at the end of the spur. Alligator is a surprising large lake with great fishing. There are a number of fine campsites on the lake’s south shore, and it is a good place to spend the night if you are getting off to a late start.

The track breaks out of the trees on the northern end of a large meadow after about five miles of hiking. There is a major trail junction here between the Henrys Fork Trail and the North Slope Trail. The junction is called Elkhorn Crossing. At this junction you have a choice of two trails:  either proceed south on the Henrys Fork Trail or turn right and follow the North Slope Trail for a short distance to the West Side Loop Trail. I suggest you take the Henrys Fork Trail.

From here it’s a beautiful and easy hike through this alpine meadow to Henrys Fork Lake. Along the way you’ll pass scenic, and popular, Dollar Lake, a good place to camp, if you can find a spot, before reaching the head of the basin. Here you’ll find Henrys Fork Lake, Lake Blanchard, and the rock-encircled Cliff Lake. From here it’s easy: Stake out a good campsite, kick back and relax, and enjoy the beauty of the Uintas.

Making a summit bid for Kings Peak
For the more adventurous, you can throw in bagging a peak and make it a grand tour of the Uintas. Kings Peak (13,528 feet) stands taller than any other summit in Utah, and gets inundated with climbers during July and August. Several approaches to Kings Peak are possible but this one, being the shortest, is the most popular. Note: Snow remains up high in the Uintas well into summer most years. Plan accordingly. You also might consider avoiding the July and August rush on the mountain; plan a trip in September and have the area virtually to yourself.

From Henrys Fork Lake, backtrack to the main trail and then head south toward Gunsight Pass. A series of switchbacks at the head of the basin leads to the pass and a well-marked trail where you drop into Painter Basin and on to Anderson Pass. From Anderson Pass it’s all uphill – you leave the trail and head up to the summit of 13,528-foot Kings Peak – rock-hopping your way to the top. It’s a steady climb, but worth every step. From the top the views are spectacular. Take special care as you descend back to the basin; there are several places where rocks slides are easily triggered and can be very dangerous.

Catching your dinner
If you want another diversion, bring your rod and reel and plan on catching your dinner every night. Within a short hike you'll find several fishing holes where you can wet a line.

Henrys Fork Basin lakes contain rainbow, brook, and brown trout. Small spinners and small, dark flies work well in the Uintas. Mepps, Panther Martins, Roostertails and Spin-A-Lures are good choices. Renegade, mosquito, gnat, ant and attractor patterns are good choices for fly fishers. 

The lakes are almost always a sure thing for catching your dinner, and the Henrys Fork River is virtually forgotten when it comes to easy angling for small trout. Dollar Lake Alligator Lake, Bear Lake and Henrys Fork Lake are all good fisheries.

Distance: About 8 miles.

Elevation: Starting elevation 9,400 feet; elevation at Henrys Fork Lake, 11,000 feet.

Season: Midsummer to mid-fall. Because of its high elevation, the region is usually covered with snow from mid-November until July. According to Forest Service estimates the Henrys Fork Basin receives about 5,000 visitors annually. Late summer is the most popular time to visit Henrys Fork, but some enjoy cross-country skiing in the winter months. Henrys Fork Trailhead is one of the few trailheads on the north slope of the High Uintas with year round access.

Maps: Trails Illustrated's High Uintas Wilderness. For USGS topographical maps, ask for Gilbert Peak NE, Mount Powell, and Kings Peak.

Contact info: Wasatch-Cache National Forest, Mountain View Ranger District, Lone Tree Road, Highway 44, Mountain View, WY 82939; (307) 782-6555.

Directions: From Salt Lake City, take I-80 east to Wyoming. About 35 miles past Evanston take the Fort Bridger exit, #39. Travel on State Road 414 to Mountain View, WY, then take State Road 410 south toward Robertson. When 410 makes a hard left (west) in about six miles, stay due south toward Bridger Lake Guard Station. In about 12 miles, turn east on Forest Service Road 077 toward Henrys Fork. In about 11.5 miles, turn west for the three-quarters of a mile drive to Henrys Fork Campground, and park near the trailhead. Driving time is approximately 3.5 hours from Salt Lake City.

User groups: Hikers, dogs, horses. No wheelchair access. No permits are required. Parking and access are free. This part of the Uintas is considered wilderness, so there are not bikes or motorized vehicles allowed.