Mysterious Dark CanyonBy Monique Beeley Dark Canyon Wilderness in Southeast Utah is one of the most remote and beautiful areas in the state. A diverse land of 47,116 acres, Dark Canyon was designated a wilderness area in 1984. This distinct canyon country contains arches, springs, seeps and even hanging gardens. Life zones in the wilderness area range from ponderosa pine and aspen-covered high country to desert vegetation in the canyon bottom. The remoteness of Dark Canyon makes it an excellent area for viewing a variety of wildlife. Elk, deer, big horn sheep, bobcat and even the occasional black bear all make their home in this diverse country.  Dark Canyon p: Monique Beeley
Our 5-day, 40-mile backcountry adventure with Buckhorn Llamas commences at an elevation of 8,000 feet among ponderosa pines and aspen groves on the top of Elk Ridge. The trail begins at the top of Woodenshoe Canyon and quickly descends. We start a few hours ahead of the llamas and plan to meet them later down the trail. Llamas are enjoyable hiking companions, not only because they carry all my gear, but also because they are very unique, social animals, each with a distinct personality. We hike only five miles the first day, leaving plenty of time to set up camp and explore our new surroundings. Our first task is unloading our gear from the llamas. They carry anywhere from 80 to 120 pounds, so I'm sure they were grateful to "take a load off". Next we find our home for the night and quickly set up our tents, in anticipation of exploring our camp. Joe Pachak, our knowledgeable guide, takes us to investigate this seldom seen wilderness, brimming with archeological history.
History, Geography, Archeology by Joe Pachak From the top of Elk Ridge, Dark Canyon flows west to the Colorado River, forming a natural corridor of travel. A trail system must have formed very early in pre-history. Paleolithic people, the Folsom/Clovis cultures, hunting mega-fauna at the end of the last ice age 13,000 years ago, may have used this east/west passage.
The nomadic hunters and gathers living the archaic lifestyle left many temporary camps near water sources at the heads of canyons. From 7,000 BC to 1,000 BC the archaic people used the rich resources in the landscape. They gathered tiny grass seeds found in the sand dunes and seasonal fruits and berries to supplement hunted game. About 2,000 years ago farming culture comes to this region, producing corn, beans, and squash. First basket maker and later Puebloan cultures moved up to the higher elevations surrounding Elk Ridge. Especially during times of extended drought, the amount of precipitation at these higher elevations meant survival to the regions first farmers. Over 500 years the pueblo people built many field houses and extended family dwelling known as unit pueblos as well as a few great houses on these high mesa tops. The pueblo sites had developed irrigation systems in the form of check dams and ditches that diverted water to their fields. For about 500 years the pueblo farmers worked hard on strategies to get successful crops from the shorter growing season at this elevation. Early, hard late frosts must have damaged many crops. Abandonment of the area was complete around 1350 AD along with the rest of the four corners area. With research in the archaeology and geography of the Dark Canyon region more will be understood about the natural corridor of travel and its trail system that may connect the four corners Puebloan people to the Virgin River Puebloan people. |
We wake early each day to the smell of good ol' cowboy coffee and the quiet sounds of camp at daybreak. The mornings were generally a bit chilly, but warmed throughout the day to the perfect hiking temperature. We average eight miles per day with many stops along the route. Joe presides over this outdoor classroom, educating us about the archeology, history and culture of the ancient sites we pass through as well as the different species of plants and animals that make their home in this beautiful wilderness.
Each day differs from the last. The high elevation ponderosa pines and aspen groves have long disappeared, given way for the diverse Cedar Mesa Sandstone canyon bottom. The llamas make for extraordinary hiking partners; throughout each day they follow our lead, tirelessly packing our gear. We reach the intersection of Woodenshoe Canyon and Dark Canyon on day three. At this intersection we head east up Dark Canyon, west would take us to Cataract Canyon and the Colorado River. We'll save that amazing hike for another time.
The last day and toughest hike of our adventure takes us from the desert bottom of Dark Canyon via the Big Notch trail back to the alpine setting where our journey began. Looking back over the past five days my mind is filled with a sense of peace and wonderment. But barely having touched the surface of this astounding and remote wilderness, I'm left yearning for more.
Check out llamapack.com for further information on this trip or other great llama adventures.
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