Southern Utah’s Cure for Spring Fever

 By Steve Cook

Winter in Northern Utah always seems to last longer than my patience. Snow still lingers for a month or more past the time when all I can think about is fly fishing with the warm desert sun shining upon my shoulders. Sure, one can pull on waders and fleece to fish mayfly hatches as early as March in the North, but it is the freedom of wading wet in a small stream that tells me spring has truly arrived. April always finds me drawn to Southern Utah, which is never more dramatic than when the red and buff sandstone is highlighted by the bright green foliage of spring. While Southern Utah is famous for its red rock canyons and stunning landscape, few realize that some remarkable fly fishing exists here as well. Though most of the southern portion of the state is desert, Boulder Mountain in central Southern Utah rises to over 11,000 feet and captures a great deal more moistureCin the form of winter snowsCthan the surrounding desert country. It is this snow pack that annually recharges the deep, cold lakes and clear, cool running streams that support trout year-round. 

The most interesting and unique waters in this area are the small streams that flow down the south side of Boulder Mountain into the Escalante River. Towering red rock walls shield these clear streams from the outside world. Lush green moss grows in sheltered nooks where water seeps through the sandstone and you can lose yourself in cool, shaded canyons in this otherwise arid environment. All of these waters are small and clear; a stealthy approach and accurate casting are prerequisites for success.

The author at his office - Steve Cook

The lakes on top of Boulder Mountain are famous for large brook trout having produced the state record fish of 7 ½ pounds. Visiting fly fishers can also find cutthroat, rainbow, and brown trout in these productive waters, as well as hybrid splake. Scuds are the predominant food source in many lakes, so be sure to pack some effective imitations in your fly box. Most of the lakes are either road accessible or just a short hike of a few miles. Anglers can walk the banks hunting for feeding fish in the clear waters or launch a float tube to access the deeper waters. There are no established campgrounds on top of Boulder Mountain and roads are gravel at best, fading into faint dirt tracks in the more remote areas of the plateau. A 4-wheel drive vehicle is recommended. Road signage is sparse and navigation is challenging on Boulder Top so it pays to be well prepared with maps and a GPS. There are too many lakes to mention them all, but begin by checking out Blind Lake, Donkey Reservoir, Deer Creek Lake, and Oak Creek Reservoir for some great fishing. Most of the lakes on Boulder Mountain are only open to fishing from mid-April to the end of October. Remember that spring comes later at these high elevations.

If you are the type of angler that needs large, challenging trout to get your blood pumping then the town of Bicknell has something special for you. Bicknell Bottoms has long produced monstrous browns and rainbows in its slow spring-fed waters. These are big, wary fish, some of them growing well past 20 inches, so expect to earn every one that you catch. The best access is on the lower end of Pine Creek (this is the Pine Creek that drains off the North side of Boulder Mountain) below the J. Perry Egan Fish Hatchery. You can fish both Pine Creek and the Fremont River, which merge in the downstream end of the Bottoms about 3 ½ miles south of Bicknell and the Sunglow Campground.

This region is rich in more than just fishing: Explore Waterpocket Fold in Capital Reef National Park with its twisting labyrinthine canyons and legacy of determined pioneers. Wander through the remains of a deserted Indian village at Anasazi State Park, where the original descendants fled a thousand years ago to some unknown fate. Hike into the vastness of Grand Staircase National Monument, which protects and preserves nearly 2 million acres of dramatic high desert landscape. Drive the challenging Burr Trail, considered one of the most scenic and controversial roads in America.

Much of this sparsely settled area is still undeveloped. Boulder had its mail delivered by mule train over the old Boulder Mail Trail until 1924 and the first cars didn’t reach town until the 1930s. Utah Scenic Route 12 now runs through the heart of Boulder Country and travelers can find luxurious lodges, and fine dining as well as public campgrounds and small town cafes, yet the wild heart of this land still remains. So give in to a little madness when spring fever strikes, match wits with a wild trout or just disappear into a silent canyon when the desert country calls you.

 Steve Cook is a published author with a book out on Utah flyfishing. Steve gives us some personal insights on several of his favorite Southern Utah angling locales.