Packing Up

Hiking Utah

By Brooks Stevenson

The southern plateaus, western deserts and northern heights have always attracted adventurers and wanderers. There is simply too much beauty in Utah to be ignored. From the first lines that Clarence E. Dutton penned describing Zion National Park as a place "with a singular power and glowing response," to the last communication from desert pioneer Everett Ruess, "I have not tired of the wilderness," there has been a magical grandeur surrounding all that is our natural geology.

Utah simply overwhelms the intrepid and inundates the experienced with glens, gorges, river valleys, carved slots, high peaks, thick forests, stunning plateaus and countless other natural wonders. So it's no wonder that Utah has become one of the premier destinations for avid hikers from around the globe, resolute foot soldiers who fear neither summer sun nor spring shower. 

Getting Above It All
There are many who believe the words Utah and Uinta come from a Ute Indian word meaning, "top of the mountains."  Despite historical discrepancies, it makes sense that Utah's tallest mountain range would be called the Uintas.

Running east to west for 150 miles from Salt Lake City to the eastern edge of the state, the Uintas feature enough hiking terrain to keep you busy for a lifetime of weekend getaways. Remarkable because of their great height (the area above timberline exceeds that of any other mountain range in the lower 48), trails rarely dip below the 9,000-foot mark. Many lakes in the Uintas remain frozen well into August. 

The longest route is the Highline Trail, which runs the 60-mile length of the High Uinta Wilderness. Weeklong backpacking trips, extended llama and horse packing journeys, and adventurous day hikes weave in and around lush alpine meadows, slippery talus slopes, and crystal clear mountain streams.

The most popular destination in the Uintas is Kings Peak, Utah's highest point and most famous mountaintop. The summit, at 13,528 feet, is climbed by an estimated 5,000 hearty souls each year, according to the U.S. Forest Service. Although a strenuous hike, the route requires no technical gear and provides some stunning views. 

Henrys Fork is the closest trailhead to ascend the peak, and has become the most popular. However, many hikers are choosing the longer routes from Mirror Lake to the west, the Uinta River from south, or Spirit Lake from the east. Regardless of the route, plan at least four solid days of backpacking to summit and return safely to your designated trailhead. The best times to visit the aspen and pine-clad mountains are from mid-summer to mid-fall. And don't be surprised if you find snow at some point along your way; Mother Nature has a keen way of pulling out all the stops when it comes to high-elevation hiking.

If a summit hike doesn't wet your whistle, spend some time in Naturalist Basin, the crown jewel of this region. This tightly knit group of lakes and meadows sitting in the shadows of great peaks is breathtaking in any direction.

Walking the Wasatch

Alta - Photo by Monique Beeley

To many, the Wasatch Mountains are synonymous with Utah's famous powder skiing. But when Old Man Winter relinquishes his stronghold, the range becomes the most visited hiking destination in the state. That may be because of its proximity to the populated metropolitan areas of Salt Lake City, Provo, Ogden and Logan, but much of it has to do with its vast and varied terrain.

The Wasatch spans 200 miles from the Idaho border to the center of the state. Seven wilderness areas are located on the Wasatch Front (four between Salt Lake City and Provo) and there are literally hundreds of miles of well-traveled and well-maintained trails along the range and its corridors. Mount Timpanogos, the highest peak in the range, has long been the most popular day hike in the state. Towering peaks, an emerald lake, a lingering glacier, alpine meadows, and waterfalls along the route make Timpanogos a photographer/hiker's Eden. Mix in the wildlife, including mountain goats, and you have the perfect mid-summer escape. This long day hike can be turned into a short overnighter. 

If high-altitude mega-hikes aren't what you're after, there are several short and scenic trails that ideal for families and children. Dog Lake, Lake Catherine and Desolation Lake are all easy and attractive routes.

Rub a Little Red Rock in Your Skin 
The Colorado Plateau is Utah's most famous geological province and most associated with its outdoor recreation. Massive sandstone formations draw millions of visitors yearly and house all five of Utah's national parks: Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands and Arches.

Thousands of miles of formal and informal trails exist in the twisting red rock of southern Utah. Choosing a hike here is about as hard as finding a needle in a stack of needles. You basically can't go wrong - unless you choose a hike that requires technical climbing equipment, is in danger of a flash flood, or has no water sources along its entire route. Along with the limitless hiking opportunities here, there are also associated risks if you don't plan properly. Warnings aside, this region has become one of the most popular in the world for exploration.

Each national park contains beautiful hikes with trailside interpretations and unexpected natural wonders. But if you're looking for the really spectacular backcountry, visit the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Calf Creek and Coyote Gulch have long been considered the gems. Accessible and scenic, these two hikes will take you into otherworldly places that illustrate vividly the erosive powers of nature. Calf Creek is an easy day hike featuring brilliant waterfalls, Indian pictographs, in a lush, vibrant desert setting, while Coyote Gulch is best as a slower two-day pace, to allow one to gawk at the arches and bridges, and to explore Indian artifacts. Look, but please don't touch.

Coming to Utah to hike is like reaching a great crossroads - too many places, never enough time. Few places offer the solitude and solace of the wilderness in so many diverse ways. Utah's sparkling aspen stands, eroded red rock canyons and delicate deserts simply speak for themselves.